Monday, September 22, 2014

Mountain Hike outside Morogoro

Pictures of our walk. This was an eight mike round trip but proved well worth it.

The tribe inhabiting this mountain maintains the road/path. There are villages scattered thoroughout the area. 

Low hanging clouds early in the day.

One of several small waterfalls that teased us with "Ah, we are finally here".

Laundry day

A curious little boy

It was cool and very verdant

Geoff on a bridge

Boys at the waterfall

Boys clowning for the camera

Mosque

School


Kate and David

Esther

Taking a much needed break

Small waterfall

Mountain bikers 1 - These guys cruise up about a 30% grade through rocks, ruts and loose sand, often with full loads or women on the back of the bike. This is the most efficient way to take stuff up the mountain since vehicles cannot pass as the trail gets smaller and smaller and finally turns into just a footpath.



Mountain bikers 2 - In order to keep their speed down and save fuel the motorcyclist just coast back down the mountain, again, usually with significant cargo. There are no helmets, fancy riding gear or aftermarket farkles found here. The riding on display is superb.




Safari!

We went on safari with our fellow Dar based GHSP volunteers (see below) last weekend and had a grand time. Our friend, Kate, made all the arrangements as her husband, David, was here visiting her. She knows the Morogoro area from past work there. We were off to Morogoro and Mikumi National Park on Friday in a minivan with Charles, our driver.

We spent two nights in Morogoro. Saturday was spent on safari with a guide in a safari vehicle in the park. Sunday we hiked up the mountains outside Morogoro to a gorgeous waterfall. That day is the subject of another post which follows this one.

David, Gail, Kate, Charles, Geoffrey, Laurel, Bill and Esther (L to R) at Mikumi.

Mikumi is only about 5 hours from Dar so it is popular and reasonably convenient in contrast to the Serengeti. It sits adjacent to the Selous Game Preserve to its south, the largest game preserve in Africa.

Approaching Morogoro, which we visited previously for lunch on the way to Dodoma, our orientation site.


We first went to the very colorful Morogoro market on Friday evening  and the women shopped for fabric.

Laurel at park entrance Saturday morning. There were only a few vehicles there the day we visited.

The group stretching our legs. We sat outside on the roof of the jeep during most of the day and drove very slowly. The park is ringed by mountains and is mostly savannah. It is a smaller version of the Serengeti.

Impala. Can you say camouflage? These guys blend in and are fast!

Wildebeest are often found with zebras. One smells well and the other sees well protecting each other from predators like the lions in the park.

Zebras. Geoff took many of these pictures and generously shared them. He has fabulous equipment and is an excellent phtotographer with a natural eye for composition. Many thanks, Geoff.

The sky here is every bit as "big" as the American West.

One of many beautiful birds captured by Geoff.

This is a bird in flight. Its belly is a brilliant yellow and contrasts with its spectacular wings. 

The park is filled with baobab tress. They are so distinctive and remain leafless for much of the year. They are also generally extremely old.


Herd of elephants. The mothers are very protective of the babies.


I was taken with the giraffes. They blend in extremely well and also protect their young fiercely by kicking!


Crocodile with an open mouth. This is how they cool themselves,

More of my personal favorite, the giraffe. Despite their seeming awkward shape, they are actually quite elegant in motion and can run like the wind.

An unusual family grouping. Most giraffes were seen in loose groups or alone.

Up on the roof. Kate, David, Gail and Esther.

Hippos at the hippo pool.

The very social hippos bobbing in the pool.

We finally found lions. This lioness was lounging after eating kill that we saw in the adjacent ravine. We kept our distance. They do attack if threatened and are treated with great respect by the guides/drivers. This was not a zoo but open habitat.

Lionesses. 

The impala are quite beautiful and plentiful, a favorite prey of lions.

This young male lion was hidden but came out to drive away one of the vehicles that was getting too close to where the pride had stashed its kill. Very impressive predator.

The group on break again. We only stopped and got out in very open areas where there was good visibility. You can see the mountains ringing the park int he background.

Here we found impala, warthogs and baboons all cluster together for safety. 

Stork. They are about three feet tall and are impressive though quite odd up close.

These are the nests of weaver birds.

Brilliant bird at rest.

Fierce warthogs always kept us at a distance.

Weaver bird nest up close.
On driving back to Morogoro we were impressed by this truck with a picture of the pope passing another truck uphill! Faith is wondrous thing.

Another spectacular African sunset we encountered on our way back at the end of a truly magical day. Kudos, Kate!

Saturday, September 6, 2014

Random Everyday Stuff

The week since we returned from Zanzibar has been an interesting one. We had a bit of a fright earlier in the week when a rent payment snafu led to the building manager showing up at our door with a lock, chain and security guard with instructions to evict us within an hour. Fortunately the misunderstanding was cleared up fairly quickly and appears to have been a one time event much to our relief.

 After a month and some domestic shopping getting things back into your suitcases is a tall order
Packing up to clear out on short notice

I have been wanting to write more about everyday events and minor struggles. Staying healthy in Africa is one of our concerns. Food and water born illnesses are major risks and run the gamut from inconvenient and unpleasant (but rarely deadly) traveller's diarrhea to much more serious illnesses. The key is to be sure what you put in your mouth is clean. That is a much bigger challenge than I ever imagined. Water is the common ingredient here. We drink bottled water at all times and do not use ice nor do we use tap water for anything internal. We do not drink from bottles that have been opened except those in our possession since opening. We always check the seals!

10L drinking water container

We buy clean water in these jugs in large quantities and transport them back to the apartment by taxi. They run from 7 to 10 liters each and are heavy, but cheap. We are getting water about once a month for $30 or so. A daily task is to fill smaller bottles from these (a plastic funnel works well) and keep one these big ones in the refrigerator.

We have also perfected the art of reusing many of these for everything from wastebaskets to vegetable planters to soap dishes etc. There is a brisk secondary market in recycling these from what we can tell. We see guys on the street everyday picking these up and doing something with them to make money. Not much goes to waste in Africa, a trait we first noted in Ethiopia where even random lengths of string are gathered, tied together into longer pieces and resold by the poor.

All our vegetables and fruits are soaked in a dilute bleach solution for 15 minutes, even if we intend to peel or cook them. Then, they are rinsed in clean water. Sounds expensive doesn't it? One of our tools is a homemade water filtration system the Peace Corps taught us to construct out of diatomaceous earth "candles" and 5 gallon plastic buckets. We filter about 5 gallons of water weekly of this and use it to rinse our food and dishes after washing them in hot water. Diatomaceous earth filtration removes about 99.9% of bacteria and parasites but does not catch viruses. Diarrhea inducing virus are like the Norwalk viruses that caused so much havoc on cruise ships. So far, so good.


Blue bucket with candles



Underside of the blue bucket with the tips of the candles where water exits.

 White bucket with spout containing filtered water

You pour tap water into the blue bucket which temporarily sits on top of the white bucket. In 24 hours or so you have 5 gallon of rinse water. If you are out in the bush this is probably quite safe to drink. given our urban location and easy access to clean cheap water we are not drinking this filtered water.


No Bite - Tanzanian made 30% DEET in the handy roll-on form. Standard Peace Corps issue!

Malaria and dengue are both nasty diseases for those without immunity and are endemic in Tanzania. Mosquitoes are everywhere in Dar so we are serious about taking precautions to minimize the bites, including mosquito nets where appropriate and generous application of DEET. We also take malaria prophylaxis in the from of doxycycline daily.

The Peace Crops does a very good job of education all volunteers regarding malaria and the case for prophylaxis. Volunteers have died from it. One died last year and her mother and the PC medical folks made a very powerful documentary about it. I want to commend the Peace Corps on its education efforts around staying healthy while serving abroad. They really do a good job of giving you the information and resources you need. I hope I never need the self diagnosis malaria test kit and medication we are all issued.